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Photography Photography has always been a large part of my life. My first camera (when I was about seven years old) was a Kodak Brownie 127, a plastic box camera for eight 4x6 cm pictures on 127 film, a paper-backed roll film format. Then, I only shot black and white film. Through the years my cameras became more complex and expensive. But it was not until I signed up to a local photography course that I really appreciated the additional advantages of processing one’s own film and quickly built a darkroom and purchased the equipment required. This opened a whole new world of darkroom highlighting, shading, Solarization (the process of re-exposing photographic paper during the development process), and playing with chemicals to get certain effects. Nowadays, this can be done using digital software, but the experience is not the same as experimenting yourself. Whether you use a conventional film camera or have just purchased your first DSLR and want to learn the basics or are looking for simple ways to update your existing photography skills, the following tips might help build a strong foundation. However, photography is an art, so the learning never stops. So, what is Photography? ​ Photography is the art, application, and practice of creating durable images by recording light electronically using a digital sensor, or chemically using light-sensitive materials and chemicals, like photographic film. It is used in numerous fields of science, manufacturing, and business, and has more direct uses for art, film and video production, recreational purposes, hobby, and mass communication. Some cameras can also capture wavelengths of light invisible to the human eye, including UV, infrared, and radio. Having been a senior Shotokan karate instructor I quickly learned that to keep improving the best way is to practice often using varied techniques, make mistakes and be open to learning from others. Essential photography tips ​ 1. Hold your camera correctly - Sounds obvious, doesn’t it, but many photographers do not hold their camera correctly, which can cause camera shake that produces blurry images. Tripods are the best way to reduce camera shake, but in truth, how many people carry a tripod, unless they are shooting in low light situations or have learned the hard way? If not using a tripod it is important to hold the camera correctly to help to reduce unnecessary movement. ​ Most people will sooner or later develop their own way of holding the camera, but it should always be held with both hands. Grip the right side of the camera with your right hand and place your left hand beneath the lens to support the weight of the camera. ​ Also, the closer you keep the camera to your body, the more stable it will become, so keep it close to the body mass. Additional stability can be achieved by leaning up against a wall or crouch down on your knees, but if there is nothing to lean on, try adopting a wider stance. 2. Composition - understand the rule of thirds, fifths, or sixes Old artists deeply understood the composition rules. Most older photography books discuss the thirds, which is based on the idea that pictures are generally more interesting and well balanced when they are not centred. Imagining a grid placed over your images with two vertical lines and two horizontal lines that divide the picture into nine equal sections. ​ Rule of thirds is a photography guideline, dissecting the image into 9 parts, with two evenly spaced horizontal lines. ​ So, following the rule of thirds, rather than positioning your subject or the important elements of a scene at the centre of the photo, place them along one of the four lines, or at the points where the lines intersect. Many cameras even have a grid option you can turn on, which can be useful when composing images. ​ However, rules are made to be broken. Photography is about creativity and personal expression, so sometimes choose to break this rule and place the points of interest elsewhere in the photo. This is fine, but before breaking these rules, it is important to understand them and are in the habit of consciously thinking about composition, the points of interest, and where to place them. ​ These days, professionals, artists, illustrators, or photographers often use the rule of fifths or sixes for composition. Looking at the Dutch and Flemish painters of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries who used fifths or sixes rules for grand naturalistic landscape and seascapes composition, to empathise dramatic a sky or ocean. 3. Eyes must always be in focus ​ When shooting portraits, the focusing area is small, so it is more important to get the image sharp. The eyes are an important facial feature, and they are often the first thing people look at, especially when it comes to close-ups photography and headshots. ​ So, the subject’s eyes should be the main point of focus. To get both eyes sharp, choose a single focus point and aim it at one of the eyes. Once the first eye is in focus, keep the shutter button pressed halfway down and move the camera to recompose the photo and include the second eye. 4. Consider the background ​ Normally, the background ought to be simple and as clutter-free as possible, so it does not pull the viewer’s attention from the main subject of the photograph. Muted colours and plain patterns often work well, no one wants viewers in being more interested in the colourful building or church tower in the background than your main subject unless a photographer wants to make a statement. ​ Fixing a distracting background can be as simple as moving the subject matter or changing an angle, but if that does not work, try to obscure it by using a wider aperture and getting in as close to the subject as possible. Whenever possible, keep the background neutral, especially if placing the subject off to one side of the photograph making the background more visible. 5. Play with perspective ​ The best way to up creativity levels is to experiment with perspective. Any scene will look remarkably changed when approached from a different angle, while, capturing your subject from above or below can change the feel of a photograph. ​ Of course, changing angles may not work for every photograph, but unless considered or tried how do you know what works. Experimentation is the key factor to help improve your photography. Make mistakes, try new things, and think out-of-the-box. When shooting small objects, animals, or children, get down to their level and view the world through their eyes. If shooting a portrait, consider standing on a bench and shoot your subject from above, or, have them stand on a bench and shoot up. 6. Shoot in RAW ​ RAW is a file format like jpeg, but unlike jpeg, it captures all the image data recorded by the camera’s sensor rather than compressing it. Shooting in RAW provides higher quality images but also allows for more control in post-processing. For instance, correcting underexposure problems or adjusting aspects like colour temperature, white balance, or contrast. ​ However, one negative aspect of shooting in RAW is that the files take up more space, so I advise using larger SD or Micro SD Cards. Furthermore, RAW photos need some sort of post-processing, so photo editing software is essential. 7. Understand the exposure triangle ​ While it can seem intimidating at first, the exposure triangle simply refers to the three most important elements of exposure, ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. When shooting in manual mode all three of these things need to be balanced to get sharp, well-lit photos. ​ ISO - controls the camera’s sensitivity to light. A low ISO setting means the camera will be less sensitive to light, while a higher ISO means it will be more sensitive to light. Conversely, the quality of the image will decrease as the ISO increases and you may see 'noise (grain)' on the image with a higher ISO. So, an ISO setting of 100 to 200 is usually ideal when shooting outdoors during the day, but when shooting in low light situations, such as indoors or at night, using a higher ISO of 400 to 800 or higher may be necessary. ​ Aperture - is the opening in your lens, it controls how much light gets through to the camera’s sensor as well as the depth of field. Depth of field refers to the area surrounding the focal point of the image which remains sharp. A wider aperture (indicated by a lower f-number) lets more light through, but it has a narrow depth of field. While a narrow aperture (indicated by a higher f-number) lets less light through but has a wider depth of field. A wide aperture is terrific when you want to isolate your subject, but when you want the whole scene to be in focus, such as with group shots, a narrow aperture is required. ​ Shutter speed - controls how long the shutter stays open when you take a picture. The longer the shutter stays open, the more light gets through to the camera’s sensor. A fast shutter speed is great for freezing action like a horse jumping a fence, while a longer shutter speed will blur motion. Long shutter speeds can give interesting effects, like flowing river water over rocks but require a tripod. 8. Use a narrow aperture for landscapes ​ Landscape photographs entail an atypical approach because everything in the foreground to the mountains in the background should be sharply in focus. So, when shooting a scene where everything needs to be fully in focus, select a narrow aperture rather than a wide one. ​ A larger f/ number means a narrower aperture, so aim towards f/22 or higher, depending on what the lens allows. Using Aperture Priority Mode (Av or A) will allow experimentation with different apertures without having to worry about adjusting the shutter speed each time. 9. Experiment using Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority Mode ​ Only using automatic mode will limit anyone’s photographic potential, so, experiment using Aperture Priority Mode (A or Av) and Shutter Priority Mode (S or Tv), as they are two valuable options that are available on most cameras. ​ Aperture Priority Mode allows the selection of the aperture and then the camera adjusts the shutter speed accordingly. So, when shooting an object and want to blur the background, select a wide aperture, and let the camera decide the shutter speed. ​ While, Shutter Priority Mode, allows the selection of the shutter speed, and the camera will select the correct aperture. So, for a crisp shot of a racing car speeding past, select a fast shutter speed (a high number, 2000 or higher) and let the camera choose the aperture. 10. Raise the ISO ​ Many photographers try to elude shooting in high ISO as it will lead to grainy-looking photos or ‘noise’. But, while using a higher ISO can lead to lower image quality, grain in some photographs can be beneficial. ​ If the shutter speed cannot be lowered due to motion blur, and a tripod is not an option, it is better to obtain a sharp photo with some noise than no photo at all, anyway, much of the noise can be removed during the post-processing. ​ Furthermore, camera technology has improved so much in recent years, so it is possible to produce great photographs with ISOs of 1600, 3200, 6400, or higher. ​ Either way, using a wider aperture can help to minimise noise when shooting at higher ISOs, and slightly overexposing your image can also help, as making light areas darker in post-processing will not increase noise, whereas making dark areas lighter will. ​ Bearing that in mind, always check the camera's settings before going on a shoot. Discovering that the whole shoot was shot at an ISO 1000 on a bright sunny day can be exasperating, especially if the photos were taken to document a special occasion or other events that cannot be recreated. ​ It is an easy mistake to make (Yes, I learned the hard way), so, to avoid unpleasant surprises, make a habit of checking and resetting your ISO settings before shooting anything. 11. Learn to use the white balance ​ White balance can help you capture colours more accurately. Different types of light have different characteristics, so not adjust the camera's white balance will result in the colours in your photography taking on a marginally blue, orange, or green hue or ‘temperature’. ​ Of course, white balance can be fixed in post-processing, but it can become tedious if you have hundreds of photographs that require small adjustments. Some of the standard white balance settings on a camera include Automatic White Balance, Daylight, Cloudy, Flash, Shade, Fluorescent, and Tungsten. ​ Each is symbolised by a different icon, so check the camera’s manual. Automatic white balance works okay in many situations, but it is best to change the setting according to the type of light shooting in. ​ When shooting indoors I use daylight bulbs for photography and videos, actually, all the bulbs in the house are daylight rated. 12. Flash can be overused or not adequate ​ Built-in camera flash at night or in low light can lead to some unpleasant effects, such as red eyes or harsh shadows. Generally, it is more advisable to better to increase the ISO and get noisier photos than to use the on-camera flash and risk ruining the shot altogether. ​ However, occasionally there may not be enough light, and if you do not have off-camera lighting, there is no other choice but to use the built-in flash. If in this situation there are a couple of things that can be done. First, find the flash settings in the camera’s menu, then reduce the brightness as much as possible. ​ Secondly, use a diffuser, parchment paper is a good option, secure it with tape. Or bounce the light off the ceiling by holding a reflector or white cardboard in front of it at an angle. ​ Nearly all hot-shoe flashguns come with diffusers. 13. Invest in a tripod or two ​ To get sharp photos in low light without raising the ISO, a tripod is an essential accessory. It also allows experimentation with long exposure photography, when the shutter is open for seconds or minutes at a time, this can produce amazing effects when photographing like the sea, rivers, or waterfalls. ​ However, when purchasing a tripod , there are several things to consider, such as weight, stability, height, and flexibility. ​ Weight is important because carrying a heavy tripod around is not fun, but it also needs to be stable enough to support the camera and the lenses. Tripod buying guide . 14. Be selective ​ An important factor to realise is that every photographer, no matter how experienced or talented, will get mediocre shots. However, the reason their portfolios are impressive is that they only display their best work; they do not bore you with the twenty other photos depicting a virtually identical scene. ​ So, if you want your work to stand out on Facebook, Instagram, website, or photo-sharing sites like Flickr or 500px, narrow it down to a couple of extremely good photos from each shoot. By showing the mediocre shots you obscure the three or four great shots obtained. 15. Learn by mistakes ​ Getting overexposed, blurry, grainy, or badly composed photos may be frustrating, but use them as a learning tool, analyse them, what did you do wrong, what do you do right. Keep notes of each shot and the associated factors, like lighting, flash or no flash, handheld or tripod, strong winds with an insubstantial tripod. ​ Most of the time there will be a simple solution such as changing the composition or using a faster shutter speed or changing the aperture. 16. Invest in decent photo editing software ​ This brings us back to shooting in RAW: When shooting in RAW, post-processing will become essential rather than an afterthought, so invest in some photo editing software that will allow basic editing tasks such as, cropping, adjusting exposure, altering white balance and contrast, and removing blemishes. ​ Most professional photographers use programs like Adobe Photoshop or Lightroom, but less pricey options are Photoshop Elements, Picasa, Paint Shop Pro or GIMP (Gimp is a free powerful open-source software). 17. learn to shoot sunrise or sunset ​ Lighting can make or break a photo, and the early morning and evening are widely thought to be the best times of day for taking photos. In photography, the hour just after the sun rises or before it sets is called the ‘golden hour’, because the sun is lower in the sky and the light is softer and warmer. ​ Whether shooting landscapes, portraits, or still life, using the early morning or evening light can give photos a serene feel with its warm glow and the long shadows it casts. 18. Bracketing ​ One of the most useful techniques in photography is called bracketing , in other words, taking multiple photos of the same subject with different camera settings. Normally, bracketing is about changing your exposure: one photo at the meter’s recommendation, plus one under and one over. But exposure is not the only variable at play here. Why Bracket Photos? ​ Bracketing means you capture a sequence of photos while changing your camera settings from shot to shot. This means you end up with two or more photos of the same scene, with only a couple of differences in each shot. ​ Exposure bracketing is the most common kind of bracketing in photography, will usually ending up with one photo that is too dark, one that is too bright, and one with a correct exposure. But bracketing the focus distance will resulting in one photo that is front-focused, another that is back-focused, and one that is accurate. ​ Some people consider bracketing takes up memory and wastes time. Especially if one knows what settings needed for an image, so, why bracket shots? There are two important reasons why bracketing is beneficial in photography.

Potting and Growing Orchids Most vandaceous orchids, a few Phaleanopsis, and Dendrobiums can be grown easily in wooden slatted baskets, without any compost at all, this method requires frequent watering. ​ Cattleya and Cymbidiums do well in a mix of bark chippings, perlite, and charcoal to keep the mixture sweet. ​ Oncidiums , Dendrobiums , Odontoglossums , and Catlias will also be happy in this mixture. Consider the thickness of the chosen orchid roots when deciding to use large, medium, or small bark chippings. ​ Paphiopedilums and Phragmipediums prefer a mixture of Rockwool, bark foam, sphagnum moss, and perlite. ​ Vanda’s and many other species can be placed in a wooden open basket and allow their roots to grow openly in the air – this method requires constant attention to watering and spraying for humidity. ​ Rainwater is the best option; otherwise, endeavour to use water produced by reverse osmosis systems unless you are extremely sure about the quality of your local water supply. Spring and summer ​ I spray my Vanda’s on a daily basis and in the hot summer months (yes I know it’s the UK, but I live in Cornwall), remember these roots are airborne. ​ My potted orchids are plunged in a bucket of water for at least 30 minutes once a week – if the weather is cooler every two weeks will be fine. ​ The pseudobulbs post-winter will be wrinkled and as spring approaches and you start watering the orchids on a more regular basis they will fill out. Start feeding in the new-year and continue every couple of months. La mayoría de las orquídeas vandaceas, algunas Phaleanopsis y Dendrobiums se pueden cultivar fácilmente en cestas de listones de madera, sin ningún tipo de abono, este método requiere riego frecuente. A Cattleya y Cymbidium les va bien en una mezcla de virutas de corteza, perlita y carbón para mantener la mezcla dulce. Oncidiums, Dendrobiums, Odontoglossums y Catasetums también estarán felices en esta mezcla. Tenga en cuenta el grosor de las raíces de las orquídeas elegidas cuando decida usar virutas de corteza grandes, medianas o pequeñas. Paphiopedilums y Phragmipediums prefieren una mezcla de lana de roca, espuma de corteza, musgo sphagnum y perlita. Vanda y muchas otras especies se pueden colocar en una canasta abierta de madera y permitir que sus raíces crezcan abiertamente en el aire; este método requiere atención constante para regar y rociar para la humedad. El agua de lluvia es la mejor opción; de lo contrario, intente utilizar agua producida por sistemas de ósmosis inversa a menos que esté muy seguro de la calidad del suministro de agua local. Primavera y verano Rocío mi Vanda a diario y en los calurosos meses de verano (sí, sé que es el Reino Unido, pero vivo en Cornualles), recuerda que estas raíces están en el aire. Mis orquídeas en macetas se sumergen en un balde de agua durante al menos 30 minutos una vez a la semana; si el clima es más fresco, cada dos semanas estará bien. Los pseudobulbos después del invierno se arrugarán y, a medida que se acerque la primavera y comiences a regar las orquídeas con más regularidad, se llenarán. Comience a alimentar en el año nuevo y continúe cada dos meses. Otoño a invierno Los de Vanda se riegan cuando las raíces aparecen blancas; cuando riegue, cambiarán de color a verde claro; riegue cada dos días, pero rocíe a diario. Las plantas en macetas riegan con moderación, yo riego la mía cada dos meses en el invierno ya que los pseudobulbos mantienen la orquídea en buen estado. NUNCA sobre el agua: asegúrese de que las raíces estén secas, no la corteza o el suelo.

Landscape Photography Choosing lenses for landscape photography is the same as having numerous paintbrushes for a painter. Lenses allow photographers to transform how a location or subject is portrayed. Depending on the lens you can have, wide-angle views, tight close-ups, the capacity to isolate subjects, and the option to keep everything in a scene in or out of focus. Particularly regarding landscape photography, lenses are one of the few means with which you can really impart personal vision into an image. Apart from lens choice affecting how you portray a setting in nature, landscape photographers also should be concerned with the practicality of such lenses they choose to work with. Remember, less is more, carrying a large selection of lenses for landscape photography is counterproductive and apart from the weight factors having too many lenses can waste time and confuse people. I carry four: ​ Prime 25mm f1.7 lens Zoom 12-60mm f3.5-5.6 Prime 45mm f2.8 Zoom 45-200 f4.0-5.6 (rarely used, mainly to focus on a topic when I cannot get close enough) ​ Zoom lenses are great for difficult topics, like a tree in a lake when you cannot get close enough, but prime lenses make you move about the landscape to compose a subject. Prime lenses make you think more, move in, move out, or perhaps change an angle. Focal length When considering a lens for landscape photography, the most common advice often suggests buying a wide-angle lens. Wide-angle lenses are suitable for landscape photography because of their extensive field of view and far-seeing depth of field, both desirable attributes for landscape photography. Wide-angle lenses allow you to fit an entire mountain in the background, or lake in the foreground of the frame, they can also be used to show a great deal of land, sea, sky, or forest. The extra depth of field they provide helps to ensure consistent sharp focus from foreground to background, which can be beneficial when photographing large expanses. Considering wide-angle lenses are the alleged standard for landscape applications, this must not deter a photographer from considering a normal (50mm, similar to human depth-of-field) or telephoto focal length for photographing landscapes. Occasionally, using a telephoto lens can provide a little extra reach for visual compression, thereby, creating interest in an image. Zoom or prime? The debate between zoom and prime lenses will continue, and the discussion is particularly ironic in the sphere of landscape photography. The merit of zoom is the ability to zoom into a landscape or topic when restricted to a specific location. Conversely, zooms can increase complacency or laziness when photographing an area, whereas prime lenses will force a motivated photographer to hike more, move about the area, searching for a more rewarding viewpoint to photograph the landscape. ​ The image-quality differences between zoom and prime lenses are debatable, there are many high-quality zooms (at a cost), and there are high-quality prime lenses. Many wider focal length lenses are available in zoom format, like my zoom 12-60mm f3.5-5.6. It gives a little leeway in the composition, but it does not mean I will not walk about first to find the optimal spot for composition. It just helps to emphasize the tree in the lake, or a boulder with the evening glow of a sunset, rather than having it off in the distance. Of course, you will need a sturdy tripod, perhaps filters, or reflectors, so, their weight should be considered. ​ I use a Bergan that carries two camera bodies, four lenses, an external monitor, filters, spare batteries, a large steady tripod, and an extra-long quick-release rail plate with spirit levels. Deciding between zoom or prime lenses depends on your own needs, such as the distance or access to walk around a subject, how much weight, how many lenses to be carried, and personal preference for focal length. Links: Long exposure landscape photography

HTML HTML is not a programming language, denoting it does not have the ability to create dynamic functionality. As an alternative, it makes it possible to organize and format documents, comparably like Microsoft Word. HTML stands for Hypertext Markup Language and it permits users to create and structure sections, paragraphs, headings, links, and block-quotes for web pages and applications. ​ When working with HTML, simple code structures (tags and attributes) to mark up a website page are used. An example being the creation of a paragraph by placing the enclosed text within a starting and closing tags. ​ Hypertext Markup Language (HTML) is the standard Markup Language for documents designed to be displayed in web browsers and can be helped by technologies such as Cascading Style Sheets (CSS) and scripting languages such as JavaScript. ​ Web browsers receive HTML documents from a web server or from local storage then render the documents into multimedia web pages. An example is: < !DOCTYPE html > < html > < head > < title > Page Title < /title > < /head > < body > < h1 > Heading of website < /h1 > < p > First paragraph used in site < /p > < /body > < /html > So, what does it mean? < !DOCTYPE html > declaration defines this document as an HTML5 document. < html > element is the root part of an HTML page. < head > portion contains meta information about the HTML page. < title > section specifies a title for the HTML page - used to name the 'Title' of your page. < body > element defines the document's body and is a container for all the visible contents - this is where you put your headings, paragraphs, images, hyperlinks, tables, and lists. < h1 > part defines a large heading. < p > section defines a paragraph/s the text written on this page is written in this section between the <> . ​ <> is known as 'Tags', there is a 'Start Tag' and an 'End Tag', data is written between them and ​ If you can right-click a web page and click on 'View Source' to see how HTML aspects of that page. HTML tags are like keywords that define that how a web browser will format and display its content. Using tags web browsers can distinguish between HTML and its content. HTML tags contain three main parts: ​ Start (opening) tag. Content. End (finishing) tag. ​ When web browsers read HTML documents it reads them from top to bottom and left to right. HTML tags are used to create HTML documents and render their properties and each HTML tag has different properties depending on its function. ​ An HTML file must have some essential tags so that the web browser can differentiate between simple text and HTML text. You can use as many tags as you want as per your code requirement.

Types of Paint Acrílico Las pinturas acrílicas son los tipos de pintura más comunes que se utilizan en maquetas y dioramas. La pintura acrílica es fácil de manejar ya que es a base de agua, lo que significa que se puede diluir y limpiar con agua. Sin embargo, el uso de diluyente acrílico o mejorador de flujo con aerógrafo brinda los mejores resultados. Las pinturas acrílicas son vulnerables a rayones o marcas, por lo que es importante cubrir sus kits de modelos con un barniz para ayudar a protegerlos. Dependiendo de la temperatura, la pintura acrílica se seca en unos 20 minutos y cura en 24 horas. Para la aerografía, los diluyentes a base de alcohol se secan más rápido que el agua. Ventajas Los acrílicos a base de agua tienden a secarse rápidamente, tienen un olor insignificante y se pueden mezclar fácilmente con agua o diluyente. El agua también se puede usar para limpiar los pinceles, así como para quitar una capa superior para crear efectos de desconchado. Debido al tiempo de secado rápido, esto permite que se puedan aplicar muchas más capas de pintura durante una sesión de modelado, aumentando así la construcción de áreas más complejas, como cabinas y figuras. Muchos fabricantes ahora producen una amplia variedad de gamas de pinturas de colores diseñadas para replicar pinturas de la vida real utilizadas por muchos países a lo largo de la historia. Esto facilita la producción de una variedad de modelos con esquemas de pintura y acabados precisos. Hoy en día, muchos fabricantes producen pinturas acrílicas aptas para aerógrafos, como Vallejo Model Air, MIG AMMO y AK Interactive. La pintura acrílica con aerógrafo atrae a muchos modelistas, ya que estas pinturas son relativamente seguras de usar en interiores y tienen poco olor. Descargo de responsabilidad: al aplicar aerógrafo con pintura, es muy recomendable utilizar una cabina de pulverización y una mascarilla / respirador para protegerse de la nube de pulverización generada. Desventajas Con sus tiempos de secado más rápidos, los acrílicos necesitan un cuidado adicional para evitar marcas de pincel en el modelo. Esto se puede lograr mediante la aplicación de múltiples capas delgadas o el uso de diluyentes niveladores, retardadores de secado o mejoradores de flujo que también se pueden usar al aerografiar acrílicos, la pintura acrílica es propensa a secarse en el aerógrafo, su punta o en el aire durante su recorrido. al modelo. La temperatura ambiente también puede afectar los aspectos de secado. El acabado final es llamado por muchos una capa superior o barniz. Ayudará a proteger la pintura de daños, ya que algunos kits de modelos están diseñados para juegos de guerra de sobremesa que están sujetos a una gran cantidad de manipulación y uso repetido. Algunas marcas de pintura acrílica pueden tener una base de alcohol y dar un olor dulce. Esto puede causar problemas al cepillar la pintura porque la segunda o tercera capa pueden interferir con las capas de pintura anteriores. Barniz Las pinturas de laca son las menos utilizadas por su dificultad y riesgo de uso. Las pinturas de laca son las más duras de los tres tipos principales y las de secado más rápido. Una vez secas, las pinturas de laca son extremadamente difíciles de quitar sin dañar también el plástico. De los tres también son los más tóxicos, por lo que los usuarios deben estar en un área bien ventilada, usando una cabina de rociado a prueba de explosiones que tenga un sistema de ventilador especial y usar un respirador, protección para los ojos y guantes. La pintura de laca requiere un tipo diferente de diluyente de pintura con el nombre apropiado de diluyente de laca. Ejemplos de pintura Laca son MrColor y MRP (MrPaint). Esmalte Las pinturas de esmalte generalmente se secan hasta obtener un acabado duro y brillante. Puede tardar entre 2 y 3 horas en secarse, pero tiene un tiempo de curado de 24 a 48 horas. Debido a esto, la pintura de Esmalte se seca más fuerte, por lo tanto, es más resistente a los rayones. Las pinturas de esmalte son más tóxicas que las pinturas acrílicas, pero no son tan malas como la pintura de laca. Se utiliza para pintar a mano, donde el secado más lento permite más tiempo para que la pintura se autonivele y oculte las pinceladas. Las pinturas de esmalte también se recomiendan para lavados de paneles. Ejemplos de pinturas de esmalte son Tamiya Enamel, AK Interactive y MIG AMMO.

Growing Orchids El cultivo de orquídeas con éxito depende del tipo de clima del que es nativo el original. Reproducir las condiciones en las que se utiliza la planta en su estado natural es fundamental para garantizar el éxito. Sin embargo, los híbridos son más adaptables que sus padres y tolerarán condiciones diferentes a las de sus padres. Las orquídeas se adaptan a una de las tres zonas o bandas de temperatura, en relación con el lugar donde crecen, recuerde que si bien una orquídea puede provenir de un país cálido, bien puede crecer a gran altura y necesita una temperatura más baja que la que normalmente se asociaría con ese parte del mundo. Zonas de temperatura Las zonas se conocen como frías, intermedias y cálidas. Algunas indicaciones sobre la zona de temperatura de una orquídea pueden obtenerse de las hojas: las plantas de crecimiento fresco tienen hojas delgadas, las orquídeas más cálidas tienen hojas gruesas y carnosas, por supuesto que hay excepciones a esta regla, así que tenga cuidado. Proporcionar un clima de calor y frío no es suficiente, también se debe considerar la luz solar que cae sobre la planta. Generalmente, la mayoría de las orquídeas necesitan sombra de la luz solar directa y una buena circulación de aire, al igual que cualquier otra forma de vida. Demasiada luz quema las hojas a un color amarillo o rojo oscuro, una luz insuficiente da como resultado un follaje verde oscuro y sin flores. Se requerirá al menos un 60% de sombra en la primavera y el verano y posiblemente incluso hasta el otoño si el clima es despejado y cálido.

Paint Pintar una maqueta es un aspecto fundamental de la construcción de maquetas, y el tipo de pintura utilizada es una preferencia personal. Entonces, ¿qué pintura usas? Para mí, las construcciones de kits de modelos no son solo armar el modelo. Utilizo principalmente una selección de aerógrafos, pero uso técnicas de cepillado manual para obtener detalles finos y la intemperie. Existen ventajas y desventajas al elegir un tipo de pintura. Utilizo pinturas acrílicas , lacas , a base de aceite y ocasionalmente esmaltadas . Los fabricantes de pinturas más habituales que utilizo son: Vallejo - acrylicosvallejo.com/es/ AK Interactive - ak-interactive.com MIG AMMO - www.migjimenez.com/en/ MSP (pintura de la serie maestra) - www.reapermini.com/paints Taller de juegos - games-workshop.com/en-EU/Home Dorado - goldenpaints.com Warcolours - warcolours.com Modelos de misión - missionmodelsus.com MRP (MrPaint) (pintura de laca) - mrpaint.sk Lifecolor - military-modelling.com/c-3358365/lifecolor-paint-sets/ Abteilung (pintura acrílica y al óleo) - abteilung502.com Colour Standards provide a reference point industry can trust when measuring colour in military colouring and camouflage, national and company transport, paint manufacturers, and hobby enthusiasts, particularly those who build models of a certain period, armies, transport, or wars. Colour standards can be applied to numerous purposes, and range from ultraviolet, visible, to infrared, wavelength ranges of 300 - 800nm. ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ Besides colour, the next obvious feature of a colour standard is its surface property, these range from high gloss, mid-gloss to matte. One can often see if the light is reflected or diffused on a matte surface. ​ The reflected light is specular light, this leaves the surface at an equal and opposite angle to that of the incident light. ​ However, the colour of many materials is not specular light, so to measure the colour of a standard, one needs to ignore the specular light and concentrate on the diffuse light measurement to fathom the colour of the standard. ​ Even today, not all paint is equal, paint is produced by a multitude of manufacturers in numerous countries colour, quality and various paint colour standards are used. ​ Many manufacturers provide colour conversion charts and in most cases these are fine. But if like me, you may use many paint manufacturers finding the right paint colour conversion can be time-consuming. So, I started to design a database to store the colours I mostly use. When a new colour materialises, I add it to the database. ​ I also add the standard codes used by some areas to define paint colours into the database: This manufacturer paint conversion document is not yet complete, but it is constantly being updated:. ​ Click on the button to download the database: The standard codes used by some areas to define paint colours into the database: ​ RAL – European colour matching standard that defines paint colours, plastics, and coatings colours. RAL is administrated by the RAL Deutsches Institut für Gütesicherung und Kennzeichnung, it is the abbreviation of ‘ R eichs- A usschuß für L ieferbedingungen und Gütesicherung’. Which means, ‘National Commission for Quality Assurance and Labelling’. ​ FS - F ederal S tandard is the colour description and communication system developed by the United States government in 1956. Its roots began in World War II when a problem was highlighted, that of providing exact colour specifications to military equipment subcontractors in different parts of the world became a matter of importance. But in 1991, Urban Fredriksson’s Colour Reference Charts were first published, which soon became the 'de facto standard * ’ for communicating colour data between historical camouflage colour researchers and modelling enthusiasts to determine the correct colours for model paints throughout the world. Known as 595a/595B, often abbreviated as ‘FED-STD-595B’ as they have no official names. ​ RLM - The State Ministry of Aviation ‘ R eichs L uftfahrt M inisterium’, defined the colours used by the Luftwaffe. They established a standard for colour shades, their production, and applications. There were directives, but other regulations, some of which had been established before the formation of the RLM itself in 1933, limited the number of colours available and fortified production from pigments obtainable within Germany. The paint was supplied by several companies and even though aircraft manufacturers could choose what commercial products to purchase, they had to adhere to specific uniform standards, characterised by the Farbtontafel and later by individual paint imperfections. Following is a list of RLM (Reichsluftfahrt Ministerium) paint designations used by the German Ministry of Aviation from 1933 through 1945. ANA - A rmy- N avy A eronautical Paint Colours were used by the US Federal Government from 1943 through to 1970 to standardize colours for aircraft manufactured by the American aircraft industry. But the ANA standard was abandoned in 1970 when the colour standards were transferred to the Federal Standard 595A. BS - B ritish S tandards for colours are the United Kingdom standard for colours, it is amalgamated under the Royal Charter ‘National Standards Body’. British Standards exist to guarantee the level of quality and consistency. BS 4800 is the standard range of colours for paints, created by the British Colour Council. and is used mainly in construction and interior decoration. A colour’s name may change, but its number is constant. In 1930 the ‘British Colour Council’ came into being, its core objective was organising a standard code for colours to maintain clarity. ​ *The term de facto standard is used in contrast with obligatory standards known as ‘de jure standards’, or to express a dominant voluntary standard when there are many standards accessible for the same use.

Wireless Network System Wireless LANs WLAN technologies tend to follow one of the three Wi-Fi communication standards and the advantages of wireless networking depend on the standard employed: ​ 802.11b - was the first standard to be used in WLANs. ​ 802.11a - the standard is faster but was more expensive than the 802.11b, because of this it was used in business networks, but it is now widely used in the public sector. ​ The 802.11g, endeavored to combine the best of both 802.11a and 802.11b. ​ The latest in Wi-Fi technology is the 802.11ac. 802.11ac connectivity, makes previous standards look like snails and makes the aggravation from slow connection speeds and load times a thing of the past. ​ The latest in Wi-Fi technology is the 802.11ad. 802.11ad connectivity, makes previous standards look like snails and makes the aggravation from slow connection speeds and load times a thing of the past. ​ The 802.11ad pushes routers, computers, servers, and printers in your home network into the next level. Because of this, an entire family can use an incredible amount of data without impacting anyone else on the network. ​ List of standards: ​ 802.11-1997 (802.11 legacy) 802.11a 802.11b 802.11g 802.11-2007 802.11n 802.11-2012 802.11ac 802.11ad ​ Installation Wi-Fi networks can be configured in two different ways: The Ad hoc approach allows wireless devices to communicate in a peer-to-peer manner. The infrastructure method allows wireless devices to communicate with a central connection that in turn communicates with wired connections on that LAN. ​ Most LANs require an infrastructure method to access the Internet, a printer, or other wired items, whereas Ad hoc mode only supports basic file sharing between the wireless devices. Both Wi-Fi approaches require a wireless network adapter/s, sometimes called WLAN cards. Infrastructure mode WLANs also need a central device called the access point. ​ The access point must be installed in a location where wireless signals can reach it with minimal interference. Although Wi-Fi signals typically reach 100 feet (30 m) or more depending on your router, obstructions like walls can greatly reduce their range, especially in an old Victorian house like mine where the walls are three feet thick. ​ Cost Most routers are wireless compatible so cost somewhat less than wired Ethernet products and most internet providers provide the router, filter, and a CAT 45 cable as part of the service. These days costs are minimal for a wireless network. ​ Reliability Wireless LANs suffer more reliability problems than wired LANs, nevertheless, perhaps not enough to be a significant concern. Older 802.11b and 802.11g wireless signals were subject to interference from home appliances including: ​ Microwave ovens Cordless telephones Electronic garage doors Fridges ​ But with the newer standards, this has all but disappeared. I will discuss setting up a wireless network later, along with port-forwarding so that you can login to your server, computer, or printer when away from home. Port-forwarding can be a challenge, so I will go through it in detail. ​ Performance These days the performance of Wireless LANs is great compared with the older 802.11b, 802.11a, and 802.11g WLANs. But Wireless systems are not as fast as their wired counterparts. Additionally, Wi-Fi performance is distance sensitive, meaning that maximum performance will degrade on a computer farther away from the access point and the more wireless devices used the WLAN performance degrades more. ​ Nowadays, the Wireless option is more than adequate for a home Internet connection for sharing files, printing, gaming, and media downloads and connecting additional devices like the iPhone and iPad. ​ Security Wireless LANs are less secure than wired LANs because wireless communication signals travel through the air and can be intercepted. ​ Many people have been through the courts for hacking into on to un-secure Wireless networks while out in their cars or sitting on a park bench. Known as war-driving it involves traveling through a residential area with their Wi-Fi equipment scanning the airwaves for unprotected WLANs. So, beware! ​ I cannot emphasize enough to set your Wireless network up securely, using the firewall and strong passwords. Using the Privacy (WEP) encryption standard WLANs improves security greatly, but not as wired networks. However, no computer network is completely secure, and you should ensure: Home is Internet firewall is properly configured. ​ Household is acquainted with the danger of Internet ‘spoof emails’ and how to recognise them. Household is aware of ‘spyware’ and how to avoid it. Use anti-virus software and keep it updated. ​ To help protect your computer from Intrusion, Trojans, and Viruses you will need antivirus and firewall software installed on your computer. I use ESET and Malwarebytes, there are free alternatives, but I find the free options significantly less secure and reliable. Nearly all the infected computers I worked on in the industry had free versions and the removal of the risk and preventing data loss always cost more than purchasing the paid anti-virus and malware software combined. ​ Although Broadband routers have firewalls installed, these are not reliable so do not rely on this alone to protect your computers. ​ KEEP the antivirus and malware software updated on a regular basis, as new threats come onto the web daily.