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  • Recovery Mode | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    System Recovery Mode Windows Recovery Mode - MS Windows 10/11 allows a recovery USB Drive to be generated. Manufacturers of pre-built desktops and laptops have their own recovery media embedded into the system, so pressing the F11 key may not work on all PCs as there is no one standard and many manufacturers use F9, F10, or F12 keys to enter recovery mode. ​ Press the Windows tab and type ‘Recovery Media’ then follow the instructions. Create a bootable USB drive using the Command Line (CMD). ​ When needed insert ‘Recovery USB drive’, and then restart your computer and press F11 before the MS Windows logo appears. ​ However, true recovery will put the computer back to its factory state and you will lose data and some programs. If you want to revert and completely clean the computer this option may be appropriate. I also use the ‘system Image’ option as this will back up the data and programs installed. ​ Various options for recovery. ​ Enter Recovery Mode using the Start Menu option: ​ The Start menu’s Restart option provides one of the most reliable methods for entering recovery mode. Click the Start button in Windows 10/11. Then click the Power button. Press and hold the Shift key. Then click Restart while holding the Shift key. After that, select Troubleshoot and Advanced options on the blue menu. ​ Enter Recovery Mode with a bootable USB drive: ​ Users can enter recovery mode with a bootable USB drive that they can install (or reinstall) Windows 10 with. First, users will need to set up the bootable USB drive with the Windows Recovery option or Image file. Users will also need to configure their PCs to boot from USB drives first by adjusting the BIOS or UEFI settings. Thereafter, insert a bootable USB drive into a PC’s USB slot. Turn the laptop or desktop on. Then a Windows Setup window will appear if the PC is configured to boot from USB drives. Click Next on the Windows setup window. Select the Repair your computer option. Then select Troubleshoot and click on Advanced Options to enter the Advanced Start-up Options menu. ​ Select the Restart now option: ​ Users can also get to Advanced Start-up Options by clicking the Restart now an option in Settings. Click the Type here to search button on Windows 10’s taskbar. Enter the keyword recover in the search box to find the Recovery option. Click Recovery to open the window shown directly below. Click the Restart now button under Advanced start-up. The PC will restart to the Choose an option menu from which users can select Troubleshoot and then Advanced options. ​ Enter Recovery Mode using Command Prompt. ​ The Command Prompt provides another way to access recovery mode. Type cmd in Windows Search and click on Run as an administrator to start Command Prompt. Input the following command and press Enter: shutdown /r /o Click Close on the You are about to be signed out a prompt that appears. Thereafter, select Troubleshoot and Advanced options after the restart. ​ So, there are few ways users can enter Windows 10’s recovery mode. When users enter the recovery mode, they can then utilise the System Restore, Command Prompt, System Image Recovery, and Start-up Repair utilities. Create a bootable USB flash drive using CMD. ​ Insert a USB flash drive into a running computer. Open a Command Prompt (CMD) window as an administrator. Type diskpart . In the new command line window that opens, to determine the USB flash drive number or drive letter, at the command prompt, type list disk , and then click ENTER . The list disk command displays all the disks on the computer. Note the drive number or drive letter of the USB flash drive. At the command prompt, type select disk , where X is the drive number or drive letter of the USB flash drive, and then click ENTER . Type clean , and click ENTER . This command deletes all data from the USB flash drive. To create a new primary partition on the USB flash drive, type create partition primary and then click ENTER . To select the partition that you just created, type select partition 1 , and then click ENTER. To format the partition, type f ormat fs=ntfs quick, and then click ENTER .

  • Bracketing Shots | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Bracketing Shots Bracketing One of the most useful techniques in photography is called bracketing, in other words, taking multiple photos of the same subject with different camera settings. Normally, bracketing is about changing your exposure: one photo at the meter’s recommendation, plus one under and one over. But exposure is not the only variable at play here. ​ Why Bracket Photos? Bracketing means you capture a sequence of photos while changing your camera settings from shot to shot. This means you end up with two or more photos of the same scene, with only a couple of differences in each shot. ​ Exposure bracketing is the most common kind of bracketing in photography, will usually ending up with one photo that is too dark, one that is too bright, and one with a correct exposure. But bracketing the focus distance will resulting in one photo that is front-focused, another that is back-focused, and one that is accurate. Some people consider bracketing takes up memory and wastes time. Especially if one knows what settings needed for an image, so, why bracket shots? There are two important reasons why bracketing is beneficial in photography. ​ 1. Playing it Safe Firstly, no matter how experienced a photographer the camera settings may be wrong. The three planned exposures, an overexposed, an underexposed, and one correct exposure will not always materialise that way. In their place, one may be extremely underexposed, another significantly underexposed photo, and another that is correct. ​ It is difficult to perfectly judge exposure in the field, especially in high-contrast light or other problematic conditions. Bracketing is a way to reduce potential problems by taking safeguards against common errors people generally make. Particularly for important potential one-time shots, it is a low-risk, high-reward procedure. ​ 2. Merging Photos Sometimes, bracketing is the only way to capture the photo required. For example, if shooting an ultra-high-contrast scene, one photo may not achieve the required results. A single image at normal exposure will lead to highlights that are too bright, and resulting in dark, noisy shadows. Occasionally this sort of problem can be rectified using a graduated ND (neutral density) filter, but the more practical option is to do things digitally. Take an underexposed photo so the highlights look good, plus an overexposed photo so the shadows are right. Then, combine the best parts of each photo into an HDR or luminosity blend. ​ Of course, one can go beyond a two-photo blend, by using three photos. For my part, I do not like blending exposures with more than 2/3 stop of exposure between them because the transition areas can look grainy. How to Do Exposure Bracketing The actual process of exposure bracketing is easy. In any semi-automatic mode, change your exposure compensation from shot to shot. In manual mode, change any of the three settings manually: aperture, shutter speed, or ISO. ​ Most decent cameras today allow the setup of automatic bracketing within the menu. When enabled, the camera will automatically change settings from shot to shot rather than making manual modifications. Some cameras only allow exposure bracketing, while others have bracketing options for JPEG settings, white balance, and other camera settings. Although bracketing is found in the menu, most modern cameras frequently assign a custom button to access this option quicker, while others have a specific bracketing button. ​ Which Exposure Setting Should You Bracket? Earlier, I stated that it is important to choose your bracketing setting carefully. Even though you can bracket shutter speed, aperture, and ISO just as easily as one another. ​ Aperture - since aperture affects depth of field it can be the worst setting to bracket. Creating an HDR from f/4 - f/5.6 - f/8 will result in an odd image, with unnatural transitions having blurry to sharp regions looking odd. A five-image bracket can be worse. ​ ISO – neither is adjusting the ISO setting, since each shot at different ISO settings will have distinctive levels of image quality. Anyway, an HDR shot at ISO 400, 800, and 1600 will not be improved over a single ISO 400 image. ​ Shutter Speed - the exposure setting is the setting one considers adjusting first. Especially if shooting from a tripod, and the subject is not moving. However, in scenes with quickly moving subjects and the potential for motion blur, the flexibility of bracketing shutter speed is limited. In action shots, ISO is often the better choice. Focus Bracketing ​ Focus bracketing is easier than exposure bracketing since there is only one setting under consideration: focus distance. Here, the goal comprises of focus stacking the images in post-processing later, like a group photo where everyone needs to be sharp but is unsure where to focus for the best result. Focus bracketing works best when overlapping the depth of field from shot to shot. But, if the steps are too wide, you can end up with an odd: sharp, blurry, sharp, blurry, sharp, etc. ​ So, when bracketing focus manually, take photos with smaller focus increments, and if possible review each photo afterward to check that the transitions are smooth. However, previews on a camera’s rear LCD look different than full-size images on a high-resolution monitor. ​ These days, many cameras today have a built-in focus stack feature to simplify this process. Focus on your nearest subject, tell the camera how many photos to take, and select a step size. I still recommend selecting lower increments than one might expect. It is also a good idea to test these features beforehand so you know how to use them correctly. ​ In theory, bracketing can refer to pretty much any variable in photography. You can bracket white balance, JPEG settings, long exposure noise reduction, flash settings, focal length, and much more. ​ If unsure what depth of field required, it is worth bracketing the aperture. Or, for a Milky Way photograph, consider using different ISO and shutter speed settings to obtain the best combination of noise performance and minimal star trails.

  • Gallery Model Kits | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Model Kit Photographs Photographs of some of my model kits. Some are complete, others, partway through the build.

  • C++ | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    C++ C++ is a general-purpose, object-oriented programming language That is extremely like ‘C’. C++ is so well-matched with C that it will undoubtedly compile over 99% of C programs without changing source code. However, C++ is better structured and a safer language than ‘C’ as it is an object-oriented programming-based language. It is more of an extension of the ‘C’ programming language or ‘C’ with Classes. ​ Object-oriented programming is a programming model based on the concept of ‘objects’, that can contain data and code: data in the form of fields, known as attributes or properties, and code in the form of procedures referred to as methods. ​ While Pascal was conceived to teach accurate programming techniques and C++ is a general-purpose language that has been expanded significantly over time. It has almost always been applied as a compiled language, and many companies provide C++ compilers, such as Microsoft, Intel, and the Free Software Foundation.

  • Recipes | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Recipes Bread - there is nothing like home-baked bread. The benefits of home baking are renowned throughout the world, it is healthier, and you have control over what ingredients go into each batch. If you purchase bread from the store, there will be a long ingredient list, like: Potassium bromate. Partially hydrogenated oil: Azodicarbonamide. Store bread can also often have preservatives to extend its shelf life. Baking your own can make your bread healthier using nutritious ingredients, like: ​ Whole wheat. Honey. Wild Rice Bread. Sunflower Seeds. Tomatoes. Cheese. Herbs. Fruit. Sandwich Bread Loaf

  • Wireless Network | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Wireless Network System Wireless LANs WLAN technologies tend to follow one of the three Wi-Fi communication standards and the advantages of wireless networking depend on the standard employed: ​ 802.11b - was the first standard to be used in WLANs. ​ 802.11a - the standard is faster but was more expensive than the 802.11b, because of this it was used in business networks, but it is now widely used in the public sector. ​ The 802.11g, endeavored to combine the best of both 802.11a and 802.11b. ​ The latest in Wi-Fi technology is the 802.11ac. 802.11ac connectivity, makes previous standards look like snails and makes the aggravation from slow connection speeds and load times a thing of the past. ​ The latest in Wi-Fi technology is the 802.11ad. 802.11ad connectivity, makes previous standards look like snails and makes the aggravation from slow connection speeds and load times a thing of the past. ​ The 802.11ad pushes routers, computers, servers, and printers in your home network into the next level. Because of this, an entire family can use an incredible amount of data without impacting anyone else on the network. ​ List of standards: ​ 802.11-1997 (802.11 legacy) 802.11a 802.11b 802.11g 802.11-2007 802.11n 802.11-2012 802.11ac 802.11ad ​ Installation Wi-Fi networks can be configured in two different ways: The Ad hoc approach allows wireless devices to communicate in a peer-to-peer manner. The infrastructure method allows wireless devices to communicate with a central connection that in turn communicates with wired connections on that LAN. ​ Most LANs require an infrastructure method to access the Internet, a printer, or other wired items, whereas Ad hoc mode only supports basic file sharing between the wireless devices. Both Wi-Fi approaches require a wireless network adapter/s, sometimes called WLAN cards. Infrastructure mode WLANs also need a central device called the access point. ​ The access point must be installed in a location where wireless signals can reach it with minimal interference. Although Wi-Fi signals typically reach 100 feet (30 m) or more depending on your router, obstructions like walls can greatly reduce their range, especially in an old Victorian house like mine where the walls are three feet thick. ​ Cost Most routers are wireless compatible so cost somewhat less than wired Ethernet products and most internet providers provide the router, filter, and a CAT 45 cable as part of the service. These days costs are minimal for a wireless network. ​ Reliability Wireless LANs suffer more reliability problems than wired LANs, nevertheless, perhaps not enough to be a significant concern. Older 802.11b and 802.11g wireless signals were subject to interference from home appliances including: ​ Microwave ovens Cordless telephones Electronic garage doors Fridges ​ But with the newer standards, this has all but disappeared. I will discuss setting up a wireless network later, along with port-forwarding so that you can login to your server, computer, or printer when away from home. Port-forwarding can be a challenge, so I will go through it in detail. ​ Performance These days the performance of Wireless LANs is great compared with the older 802.11b, 802.11a, and 802.11g WLANs. But Wireless systems are not as fast as their wired counterparts. Additionally, Wi-Fi performance is distance sensitive, meaning that maximum performance will degrade on a computer farther away from the access point and the more wireless devices used the WLAN performance degrades more. ​ Nowadays, the Wireless option is more than adequate for a home Internet connection for sharing files, printing, gaming, and media downloads and connecting additional devices like the iPhone and iPad. ​ Security Wireless LANs are less secure than wired LANs because wireless communication signals travel through the air and can be intercepted. ​ Many people have been through the courts for hacking into on to un-secure Wireless networks while out in their cars or sitting on a park bench. Known as war-driving it involves traveling through a residential area with their Wi-Fi equipment scanning the airwaves for unprotected WLANs. So, beware! ​ I cannot emphasize enough to set your Wireless network up securely, using the firewall and strong passwords. Using the Privacy (WEP) encryption standard WLANs improves security greatly, but not as wired networks. However, no computer network is completely secure, and you should ensure: Home is Internet firewall is properly configured. ​ Household is acquainted with the danger of Internet ‘spoof emails’ and how to recognise them. Household is aware of ‘spyware’ and how to avoid it. Use anti-virus software and keep it updated. ​ To help protect your computer from Intrusion, Trojans, and Viruses you will need antivirus and firewall software installed on your computer. I use ESET and Malwarebytes, there are free alternatives, but I find the free options significantly less secure and reliable. Nearly all the infected computers I worked on in the industry had free versions and the removal of the risk and preventing data loss always cost more than purchasing the paid anti-virus and malware software combined. ​ Although Broadband routers have firewalls installed, these are not reliable so do not rely on this alone to protect your computers. ​ KEEP the antivirus and malware software updated on a regular basis, as new threats come onto the web daily.

  • Paint | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Paint Pintar una maqueta es un aspecto fundamental de la construcción de maquetas, y el tipo de pintura utilizada es una preferencia personal. Entonces, ¿qué pintura usas? Para mí, las construcciones de kits de modelos no son solo armar el modelo. Utilizo principalmente una selección de aerógrafos, pero uso técnicas de cepillado manual para obtener detalles finos y la intemperie. Existen ventajas y desventajas al elegir un tipo de pintura. Utilizo pinturas acrílicas , lacas , a base de aceite y ocasionalmente esmaltadas . Los fabricantes de pinturas más habituales que utilizo son: Vallejo - acrylicosvallejo.com/es/ AK Interactive - ak-interactive.com MIG AMMO - www.migjimenez.com/en/ MSP (pintura de la serie maestra) - www.reapermini.com/paints Taller de juegos - games-workshop.com/en-EU/Home Dorado - goldenpaints.com Warcolours - warcolours.com Modelos de misión - missionmodelsus.com MRP (MrPaint) (pintura de laca) - mrpaint.sk Lifecolor - military-modelling.com/c-3358365/lifecolor-paint-sets/ Abteilung (pintura acrílica y al óleo) - abteilung502.com Colour Standards provide a reference point industry can trust when measuring colour in military colouring and camouflage, national and company transport, paint manufacturers, and hobby enthusiasts, particularly those who build models of a certain period, armies, transport, or wars. Colour standards can be applied to numerous purposes, and range from ultraviolet, visible, to infrared, wavelength ranges of 300 - 800nm. ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ Besides colour, the next obvious feature of a colour standard is its surface property, these range from high gloss, mid-gloss to matte. One can often see if the light is reflected or diffused on a matte surface. ​ The reflected light is specular light, this leaves the surface at an equal and opposite angle to that of the incident light. ​ However, the colour of many materials is not specular light, so to measure the colour of a standard, one needs to ignore the specular light and concentrate on the diffuse light measurement to fathom the colour of the standard. ​ Even today, not all paint is equal, paint is produced by a multitude of manufacturers in numerous countries colour, quality and various paint colour standards are used. ​ Many manufacturers provide colour conversion charts and in most cases these are fine. But if like me, you may use many paint manufacturers finding the right paint colour conversion can be time-consuming. So, I started to design a database to store the colours I mostly use. When a new colour materialises, I add it to the database. ​ I also add the standard codes used by some areas to define paint colours into the database: This manufacturer paint conversion document is not yet complete, but it is constantly being updated:. ​ Click on the button to download the database: The standard codes used by some areas to define paint colours into the database: ​ RAL – European colour matching standard that defines paint colours, plastics, and coatings colours. RAL is administrated by the RAL Deutsches Institut für Gütesicherung und Kennzeichnung, it is the abbreviation of ‘ R eichs- A usschuß für L ieferbedingungen und Gütesicherung’. Which means, ‘National Commission for Quality Assurance and Labelling’. ​ FS - F ederal S tandard is the colour description and communication system developed by the United States government in 1956. Its roots began in World War II when a problem was highlighted, that of providing exact colour specifications to military equipment subcontractors in different parts of the world became a matter of importance. But in 1991, Urban Fredriksson’s Colour Reference Charts were first published, which soon became the 'de facto standard * ’ for communicating colour data between historical camouflage colour researchers and modelling enthusiasts to determine the correct colours for model paints throughout the world. Known as 595a/595B, often abbreviated as ‘FED-STD-595B’ as they have no official names. ​ RLM - The State Ministry of Aviation ‘ R eichs L uftfahrt M inisterium’, defined the colours used by the Luftwaffe. They established a standard for colour shades, their production, and applications. There were directives, but other regulations, some of which had been established before the formation of the RLM itself in 1933, limited the number of colours available and fortified production from pigments obtainable within Germany. The paint was supplied by several companies and even though aircraft manufacturers could choose what commercial products to purchase, they had to adhere to specific uniform standards, characterised by the Farbtontafel and later by individual paint imperfections. Following is a list of RLM (Reichsluftfahrt Ministerium) paint designations used by the German Ministry of Aviation from 1933 through 1945. ANA - A rmy- N avy A eronautical Paint Colours were used by the US Federal Government from 1943 through to 1970 to standardize colours for aircraft manufactured by the American aircraft industry. But the ANA standard was abandoned in 1970 when the colour standards were transferred to the Federal Standard 595A. BS - B ritish S tandards for colours are the United Kingdom standard for colours, it is amalgamated under the Royal Charter ‘National Standards Body’. British Standards exist to guarantee the level of quality and consistency. BS 4800 is the standard range of colours for paints, created by the British Colour Council. and is used mainly in construction and interior decoration. A colour’s name may change, but its number is constant. In 1930 the ‘British Colour Council’ came into being, its core objective was organising a standard code for colours to maintain clarity. ​ *The term de facto standard is used in contrast with obligatory standards known as ‘de jure standards’, or to express a dominant voluntary standard when there are many standards accessible for the same use.

  • Types of Paint | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Types of Paint Acrílico Las pinturas acrílicas son los tipos de pintura más comunes que se utilizan en maquetas y dioramas. La pintura acrílica es fácil de manejar ya que es a base de agua, lo que significa que se puede diluir y limpiar con agua. Sin embargo, el uso de diluyente acrílico o mejorador de flujo con aerógrafo brinda los mejores resultados. Las pinturas acrílicas son vulnerables a rayones o marcas, por lo que es importante cubrir sus kits de modelos con un barniz para ayudar a protegerlos. Dependiendo de la temperatura, la pintura acrílica se seca en unos 20 minutos y cura en 24 horas. Para la aerografía, los diluyentes a base de alcohol se secan más rápido que el agua. Ventajas Los acrílicos a base de agua tienden a secarse rápidamente, tienen un olor insignificante y se pueden mezclar fácilmente con agua o diluyente. El agua también se puede usar para limpiar los pinceles, así como para quitar una capa superior para crear efectos de desconchado. Debido al tiempo de secado rápido, esto permite que se puedan aplicar muchas más capas de pintura durante una sesión de modelado, aumentando así la construcción de áreas más complejas, como cabinas y figuras. Muchos fabricantes ahora producen una amplia variedad de gamas de pinturas de colores diseñadas para replicar pinturas de la vida real utilizadas por muchos países a lo largo de la historia. Esto facilita la producción de una variedad de modelos con esquemas de pintura y acabados precisos. Hoy en día, muchos fabricantes producen pinturas acrílicas aptas para aerógrafos, como Vallejo Model Air, MIG AMMO y AK Interactive. La pintura acrílica con aerógrafo atrae a muchos modelistas, ya que estas pinturas son relativamente seguras de usar en interiores y tienen poco olor. Descargo de responsabilidad: al aplicar aerógrafo con pintura, es muy recomendable utilizar una cabina de pulverización y una mascarilla / respirador para protegerse de la nube de pulverización generada. Desventajas Con sus tiempos de secado más rápidos, los acrílicos necesitan un cuidado adicional para evitar marcas de pincel en el modelo. Esto se puede lograr mediante la aplicación de múltiples capas delgadas o el uso de diluyentes niveladores, retardadores de secado o mejoradores de flujo que también se pueden usar al aerografiar acrílicos, la pintura acrílica es propensa a secarse en el aerógrafo, su punta o en el aire durante su recorrido. al modelo. La temperatura ambiente también puede afectar los aspectos de secado. El acabado final es llamado por muchos una capa superior o barniz. Ayudará a proteger la pintura de daños, ya que algunos kits de modelos están diseñados para juegos de guerra de sobremesa que están sujetos a una gran cantidad de manipulación y uso repetido. Algunas marcas de pintura acrílica pueden tener una base de alcohol y dar un olor dulce. Esto puede causar problemas al cepillar la pintura porque la segunda o tercera capa pueden interferir con las capas de pintura anteriores. Barniz Las pinturas de laca son las menos utilizadas por su dificultad y riesgo de uso. Las pinturas de laca son las más duras de los tres tipos principales y las de secado más rápido. Una vez secas, las pinturas de laca son extremadamente difíciles de quitar sin dañar también el plástico. De los tres también son los más tóxicos, por lo que los usuarios deben estar en un área bien ventilada, usando una cabina de rociado a prueba de explosiones que tenga un sistema de ventilador especial y usar un respirador, protección para los ojos y guantes. La pintura de laca requiere un tipo diferente de diluyente de pintura con el nombre apropiado de diluyente de laca. Ejemplos de pintura Laca son MrColor y MRP (MrPaint). Esmalte Las pinturas de esmalte generalmente se secan hasta obtener un acabado duro y brillante. Puede tardar entre 2 y 3 horas en secarse, pero tiene un tiempo de curado de 24 a 48 horas. Debido a esto, la pintura de Esmalte se seca más fuerte, por lo tanto, es más resistente a los rayones. Las pinturas de esmalte son más tóxicas que las pinturas acrílicas, pero no son tan malas como la pintura de laca. Se utiliza para pintar a mano, donde el secado más lento permite más tiempo para que la pintura se autonivele y oculte las pinceladas. Las pinturas de esmalte también se recomiendan para lavados de paneles. Ejemplos de pinturas de esmalte son Tamiya Enamel, AK Interactive y MIG AMMO.

  • Growing Orchids | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    Growing Orchids El cultivo de orquídeas con éxito depende del tipo de clima del que es nativo el original. Reproducir las condiciones en las que se utiliza la planta en su estado natural es fundamental para garantizar el éxito. Sin embargo, los híbridos son más adaptables que sus padres y tolerarán condiciones diferentes a las de sus padres. Las orquídeas se adaptan a una de las tres zonas o bandas de temperatura, en relación con el lugar donde crecen, recuerde que si bien una orquídea puede provenir de un país cálido, bien puede crecer a gran altura y necesita una temperatura más baja que la que normalmente se asociaría con ese parte del mundo. Zonas de temperatura Las zonas se conocen como frías, intermedias y cálidas. Algunas indicaciones sobre la zona de temperatura de una orquídea pueden obtenerse de las hojas: las plantas de crecimiento fresco tienen hojas delgadas, las orquídeas más cálidas tienen hojas gruesas y carnosas, por supuesto que hay excepciones a esta regla, así que tenga cuidado. Proporcionar un clima de calor y frío no es suficiente, también se debe considerar la luz solar que cae sobre la planta. Generalmente, la mayoría de las orquídeas necesitan sombra de la luz solar directa y una buena circulación de aire, al igual que cualquier otra forma de vida. Demasiada luz quema las hojas a un color amarillo o rojo oscuro, una luz insuficiente da como resultado un follaje verde oscuro y sin flores. Se requerirá al menos un 60% de sombra en la primavera y el verano y posiblemente incluso hasta el otoño si el clima es despejado y cálido.

  • HTML | Qâf ScaleModels Gozo

    HTML HTML is not a programming language, denoting it does not have the ability to create dynamic functionality. As an alternative, it makes it possible to organize and format documents, comparably like Microsoft Word. HTML stands for Hypertext Markup Language and it permits users to create and structure sections, paragraphs, headings, links, and block-quotes for web pages and applications. ​ When working with HTML, simple code structures (tags and attributes) to mark up a website page are used. An example being the creation of a paragraph by placing the enclosed text within a starting and closing tags. ​ Hypertext Markup Language (HTML) is the standard Markup Language for documents designed to be displayed in web browsers and can be helped by technologies such as Cascading Style Sheets (CSS) and scripting languages such as JavaScript. ​ Web browsers receive HTML documents from a web server or from local storage then render the documents into multimedia web pages. An example is: < !DOCTYPE html > < html > < head > < title > Page Title < /title > < /head > < body > < h1 > Heading of website < /h1 > < p > First paragraph used in site < /p > < /body > < /html > So, what does it mean? < !DOCTYPE html > declaration defines this document as an HTML5 document. < html > element is the root part of an HTML page. < head > portion contains meta information about the HTML page. < title > section specifies a title for the HTML page - used to name the 'Title' of your page. < body > element defines the document's body and is a container for all the visible contents - this is where you put your headings, paragraphs, images, hyperlinks, tables, and lists. < h1 > part defines a large heading. < p > section defines a paragraph/s the text written on this page is written in this section between the <> . ​ <> is known as 'Tags', there is a 'Start Tag' and an 'End Tag', data is written between them and ​ If you can right-click a web page and click on 'View Source' to see how HTML aspects of that page. HTML tags are like keywords that define that how a web browser will format and display its content. Using tags web browsers can distinguish between HTML and its content. HTML tags contain three main parts: ​ Start (opening) tag. Content. End (finishing) tag. ​ When web browsers read HTML documents it reads them from top to bottom and left to right. HTML tags are used to create HTML documents and render their properties and each HTML tag has different properties depending on its function. ​ An HTML file must have some essential tags so that the web browser can differentiate between simple text and HTML text. You can use as many tags as you want as per your code requirement.

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